Ark Valley News - Food for thought

Valley Center High School students (from left) Molly Cain, Austin Bui and Kyle Straight go through the lunch line Aug. 19. Government guidelines regulate the amount of sodium and calories in school meals, and some students say the restrictions lead to bland-tasting lunches.

Food for thought
By Matt Heilman
Last Updated: August 22, 2013

Some worry bland meals will drive schools out of the lunch business

When the government's strict calorie and sodium standards lead to bland Italian pasta bake, what do you do?

Top it with ranch dressing, of course.

That's exactly what some Valley Center High School students resorted to this week as the school district's food service department began yet another year trying to make the best out of increasingly demanding federal guidelines.

It's getting tougher to do, and some fear the steep standards may eventually push public school districts out of the food business altogether.

"I'm afraid that our food is not going to taste like home or taste like a restaurant or taste like anything they're going to be familiar with," said Molly Rainey, the Valley Center school district's food service director. "I understand the whole reasoning behind it, but you do worry it's just going to push us out of business and students are just going to bring their own."

Although participation rates have held steady in Valley Center's upper grades over the past few years, some students agree that bringing sacked lunches may be worth the extra effort, especially if school food is going to be as tasteless as it has been at times.

"It's like everything tastes exactly the same," said VCHS junior Zach White.

Rainey said the district offers some simple remedies for the lackluster lunches, but they may not be enough.

"I don't cook like this at home," she said. "With the new standards, the new sodium levels are going to be almost impossible to get to, once you have the sodium in milk and things you can't avoid. … We try to add chili powders, garlic powders and things that we can add to entice the flavors. But salt is really what brings out the flavor in things."

Food service in Valley Center public schools — just like other districts across the country — has undergone substantial restructuring over the past few years as it adheres to the federal government's battle against obesity and other student health issues.

To receive federal financial subsidies, school districts must take steps to follow the government's guidelines.

Rainey took over the food service program more than two years ago and embarked on an effort to make those changes. And after a few hiccups along the way — most notably 2011's sweet and sour pork, which students still talk about — Rainey said the program has been running fairly smoothly.

Rainey also has been credited with making the program financially self-sustaining after years of being subsidized by the school district's tax-supported general fund.

Meanwhile, Rainey said, students have adjusted to the changes.

"The kids have gotten acclimated to where we should've been two years ago when I came," Rainey said. "We're in the same place. They're just used to it."

One of the biggest changes was in 2012-13, when the government mandated that each student have a fruit or a vegetable on his or her lunch tray. Meanwhile, calorie and sodium guidelines have become increasingly strict.

Valley Center offers fewer desserts, exchanging some for sweet fruits or Jell-O.

A sign in the lunch line each day shows students how the meal completes a "healthy plate." On Aug. 19, the fruit was applesauce, grain was garlic bread, vegetables were green peppers and carrots, and protein was Italian pasta bake.

Some students said the pasta looked like goulash and had very little flavor. Others enhanced the meal with salad dressing.

Students are given options each day. The district offers fifth- through 12th-grade students entrée choices for lunch. If students don't want the main meal, they can choose a cold sandwich or a chef salad.

One of the biggest changes next year will be noticed in the high school's a la carte menu, as high-fat and high-sodium items are replaced with healthier fare.

Some students said they have noticed Valley Center's attempt to improve food service, but it may never be enough to erase the stereotypes of the lunchroom.

"I'd say maybe one out of seven times, the food is not bad," White said.

Makayla Davis, a junior, said some of the food that nobody seemed to like was taken out of regular rotation.

"There are certain things that are pretty good," Davis said. "… I like salt, so you can definitely taste the difference (with low-sodium food)."

Senior Avery Potillo agreed.

"The things that were completely disgusting are completely gone," he said. "Everything else is the same. Not all of them are gross. There are a few that are gross, but most of them are just bland."

Repeating a familiar refrain, students also mentioned that the amount of food they receive often leaves them hungry.

The district's hands are tied because of calorie restrictions. But to at least partially address that, the district allows students to take as many fruits and vegetables as they want.

"When kids tell me they don't get enough to eat, I encourage them to do that," Rainey said. "Today, we've got pineapple, carrots, squash, green peppers, apple slices and applesauce. They can have all of that in unlimited amounts."

Students the News talked with this week had suggestions for food service. Some wanted a return of the Mediterranean wrap, improvements to the cheeseburgers and fries, pizza from Papa Johns and a salad bar.

"Everybody likes cheeseburgers with fries," Potillo said. "But you don't get cheese. The burger hardly tastes like meat. And the fries aren't crispy like French fries should be. You can poke a hole in them. They're just like potatoes."

Rainey said she regularly receives input from students and meets with area food service directors to glean new menu options as well as ideas to improve on existing choices or evidence to get rid of them.

"I always preach that students are our customers," Rainey said. "They're not just kids. They're our customers, so we need to act just like we would if their parents came through."

Ryan McCalla, a junior, said he doesn't eat school lunches very often, but can't complain about the service he receives in the lunchroom.

"The lunch ladies are always nice," he said.

And the bland food?

"It's not their fault," McCalla said.